By Dusty Craig

Step into a certain backyard in Poway in mid-April, and the scent engulfs you like a sweet blanket. Over 60 varieties of "Old Garden" roses are in rollicking full bloom, drooping, nodding, swaying and gently rustling in the breeze. What looks like an unkempt jungle of leaves, canes and flowers is actually history you can see, smell and touch. Some of these roses date back 5 million years ago, found fossilized in fragments of clay. Others made their appearance when King Arthur was holding his version of the modern business meeting. Still others watched Christ climb Calvary, from the decks of ships that brought them in pots from Egypt and China. And because these roses (except for species roses) do not reproduce true from seed, each and every plant in that Poway garden is a piece of the original plant-the "mother" plant, much like geranium cuttings and plumeria stems. Touch a flower of `York and Lancaster', and you are touching 600+ years of history directly. Caress a leaf of `Sombreuil', and visions of the California 49er's (the gold miners, not the football team) arise. Sniff the exquisite fragrance of `Souvenir de la Malmaison', and a faint memory of Empress Josephine touches the mind. History buffs should have such a rose garden for these reasons. A piece of history in the hand, a volatile reminder of how things were in a very different time. Perhaps the great Linnaeus budded a plant of `White Rose of York' for his own garden. Martha Washington probably enjoyed many fine English and French imports, such as `Rosa foetida', `Rosa banksiae', `Agathe' and `Duchesse d'Angouleme' in her garden at Mt. Vernon. Every significant period of history has at least one rose to call its own, such as the War of the Roses with the `Red Rose of Lancaster' or `Rosa gallica "Officinalis"', `White Rose of York' or `Rosa alba semi-plena', `York and Lancaster' or `Rosa damascena versicolour'. Even lusty old Nero, Roman Emperor extraordinaire, had `Rosa paestrum', or the `Autumn Damask', to drag into his less-than-glorious limelight by using its fragrant petals to hold outrageous orgies upon. History has looked upon roses very nearly from the beginning of time, and man has found uses for them ever since.

The perfume and medicine industries made very good use of the rose in oils, patent nostrums, fragrant rosewaters and perfumes. The patent medicine industry wasn't far off the mark. One average sized hep (seedpod) of a rose contains more vitamin C than an average sized orange. The use of fresh, dried or preserved roses in hundreds of forms dates back to the ancient Persians, who are said to have discovered attar of roses, and the ancient Egyptians, who preserved roses in dried form in a very early version of potpourri. Later, rose petals were used to make wine, syrups and jelly, along with being sugared and used for decorating cakes and candies. Rose heps were dried and crushed to make tea and patent medicines guaranteed to cure digestive upsets. The oils of crushed rose petals were used to manufacture thousands of different fragrance preparations, from soap to facial powder. Today, not much other than the manufacturing process has changed. Rose heps are still marketed as the best source of vitamin C, and in certain specialty stores rose petal jam, rose petal wine and candied rose petals can still be obtained. Oil of roses is still the number one ingredient in fragrance preparations, from candles and incense to shampoos and hand cream. Roses still figure strongly in society today, although many people are not aware of it. Let it be said that if the label has a rose on it, it will sell far more readily than if the rose were absent, and advertisers know this well. The rose is a symbol of life, health, happiness, romance and elegance unsurpassed by any other flower.

San Diego has perhaps the nearest to a perfect rose growing climate in all the United States. Mild winters mean no protective covering, digging up and storing in the basement for the winter, and dieback problems. It also means nearly year round flowering if wanted, wintering over of fungus spores, and plants that "burn out" earlier. Little of this applies to old garden roses. Many old garden roses are extremely hardy (there is a rose native to the Arctic Circle) and disease free. They don't require the pampering, spraying, pruning, watering or feeding that modern hybrid teas, grandifloras, floribundas and miniatures require. They do require far more room and a tolerance for sporadic bloom cycles or once a year blooming. They lend themselves very well to an organic garden, such as the Poway garden of the author. Using only organic fertilizers such as Spray-N-Grow, alfalfa pellets, steer and chicken manure and fish emulsion, both the soil and the roses thrive, as do the good bugs and birds which are used to keep the bad bugs in check. The roses release their true fragrance, untainted by faint chemical smells.

Watering is best done by drip irrigation for larger gardens, and hand watering in smaller gardens. Established old garden roses need some water in the hottest parts of summer and no water at all during the rainy season. Some species roses, such as Rosa rugosa and its hybrids, need little water at all once established. Many rugosas are native to arid regions and seacoasts, making them tolerant of salt air as well.

About the only type of old garden rose that doesn't do too well here is the gallica. Gallicas require some winter chilling to be at their best bloom, and San Diego just doesn't get cold enough for them. Some gallicas that originated in warmer climes will do quite well, but others, such as `Superb Tuscan' and `Tuscany' have few blooms and sparse foliage. Noisettes, chinas and teas do very well in San Diego, being very tender and in need of great warmth to be at their best. The hybrid perpetuals, damasks and hybrid musks are all good choices for a San Diego garden, the hybrid musks especially for their versatility. They will grow well in partial to near full shade and bloom year 'round, in addition to being fairly drought tolerant once established.

The following section is a listing of the old garden roses grown in the Poway garden of the author. Each contains a brief description of size, colour, fragrance and also comments about the plant. These are completely organically grown with absolutely no chemical sprays of any sort, nor any disease control other than general clean up of fallen leaves and removal of deadwood. The majority of them were planted in January of 1986 with the hybrid musks going in around December of 1992. The reference to "Dowager" or "Victorian" class refers to showing them in American Rose Society sanctioned rose shows. Dowagers are varieties introduced before 1867; Victorians between 1867 and 1930. 1867 is the date of introduction of the first hybrid tea, `La France'.

ARCHDUKE CHARLES: China, 1840, Dowager class. 6' X 4'. Nice tea fragrance with undertones of citrus. Easy to grow but needs support if let grow large. Flowers 3" in clusters of 4-8 and singles. Very double. Ivory pink in the centre, darkening to rich carmine pink on the outer petals as the bloom ages. Can mildew a bit in the late spring and early fall. Matte green foliage. Blooming starts around late February and goes through December, with the best bloom being the first in the spring. Blooms will ball and rot in wet weather. Few thorns. Yearly removal of deadwood and light shaping done after final bloom in December with season long deadheading a good idea for increased bloom production throughout the season. Takes about one season to become established. Sets few hips.  More pictures  1   2

ARRILLAGA: Hybrid Perpetual, 1929, Victorian class. 10' X 8' or more. HUGH!! Not only the blooms, thorns and leaves, but the canes too. Strong, stiff canes over 1.5" in diameter shoot skyward clothed in medium green foliage that is disease free in my garden. Heavy petalled, very double blooms of hybrid tea shape are a lovely silvery pink, but are not rain resistant and will ball and rot in wet weather. Blooms heavily in the spring, then has occasional blooms throughout the season with a smaller flush in the fall. Nice, light fragrance, best in the heat of midday. Likes to be pegged. Yearly deadwood removal and season long deadheading brings out the best in this big fellah. Takes about 2 seasons to reach full bloom potential. Sets some hips. Mine, unfortunately, did eventually die completely in 1998; if I can find a nice, healthy plant I’ll replant it next spring.

BALLERINA: Hybrid musk, 1937, shrub class. 6’+ X 6’+. If you have the room, you MUST have this rose! As with most hybrid musks, Ballerina will grow in partial shade and is drought tolerant once established. Tiny magenta-edged white single blooms come in clusters of hundreds in the late spring, with intermittent bloom all year. Clean, light olive green glossy foliage is elegant and profuse. Can be easily trained or espaliered; looks perfectly at home bounding over rocks or down a bank, covering a split-rail fence or clambering up a trellis to cover a shed. Some light fragrance noted. Peg for most incredible bloom. Takes one season to become established.

BARONNE PREVOST: Hybrid perpetual, 1842, Dowager class. 8' X 5'. Very thorny. One of the earliest of the class to be introduced, and one of the best. Big, brawny plant with medium green foliage that can mildew a bit. Large, flat, heavily fragrant cerise pink blooms absolutely packed with hundreds of petals. Puts on a great spring show, then has intermittent blooms throughout the season. Responds very well to pegging. Deadwood removal, deadheading and light shaping are all that is needed. Takes about 3 seasons to become fully established. Sets a good crop of large red-orange hips.

BLUSH NOISETTE: Noisette, prior to 1817, Dowager class. 8'+ X 6'. Wonderful, versatile plant that lends itself to a variety of uses. Long, flexible canes respond incredibly well to pegging and espaliering, but can also be used as a free standing, weeping shrub allowed to ramble over a bank, low wall or fence. Huge trusses of fragrant, small, semi double blooms start as a pink bud and open to a blush white bloom. Dainty mid green foliage is disease free. Moderately thorny. Huge flush of bloom in mid spring, followed by intermittent flowers throughout the season. Deadheading and deadwood removal is done after the bloom season is done in late November. Some light shaping can also be done at this time. Takes about 3 seasons to reach peak potential. Sets a good crop of tiny orange hips.

BUFF BEAUTY: Hybrid musk, 1939, shrub class. 6' X 3'. Elegant, classy bush with glossy dark green foliage that compliments the hybrid tea shaped double blooms of rich apricot-buff that are lightly fragrant. Disease free, semi drought and shade tolerant. Moderately thorny. Pegs well. Good bloom in mid spring, with all season intermittent bloom. Light shaping, deadheading and deadwood removal are the only things needed to keep the plant neat and tidy. Takes about 2 seasons to become established. Sets a good crop of hips. More pictures: 1  2  3

CLIMBING BLOOMFIELD DAINTY: Hybrid musk, 1924, shrub class. 3' X 3'. Can reach 7'+ with good spread. Likes the shade, and like most of its class, it is semi drought tolerant and disease free. Mid green foliage sets off the single, deep yellow petals etched with orange-red on the edges. Fades to a lovely light lemon yellow. Light, citrusy fragrance. Good all season bloom, tending towards larger sprays later in the season. Light shaping, deadheading and deadwood removal recommended. Takes about 4 seasons to become fully established. Sets a good crop of hips.

CLIMBING CECILE BRUNNER: Climbing polyantha, 1894, Victorian class and polyantha class. 20'+ X 10'+. A glorious sweetheart rose much beloved both yesteryear and today. Extremely vigourous and spreads like the space shuttle taking orbit, so give it plenty of room. Very versatile-can be trained any which way you like. My personal specimen is approximately 80 years old, removed from an old house in Porterville, California several years ago. In the windstorm of May 1994, it blew down and took the fence with it, which made it necessary to cut it back to about 3' high, nearly breaking my heart in the process. One year later it was nearly back to its original size of 20'+ and blooming like it had in the past. And bloom it does. In the first bloom cycle in the mid spring, it stops traffic on our street and draws people from all over the county to view its magnificent show. Tiny hybrid tea shaped pink blooms with a yellow base smother the clean, disease free dark green foliage with huge sprays of 10-20 blooms that have a light fragrance. Has nasty, hooked thorns that will reach out and grab you when you least expect it. Deadwood removal is all I dare do to it-I don't water or feed it for fear it will swallow the fence, yard and neighbour's house! No hips.

CORNELIA: Hybrid musk, 1925, shrub class. 2' X 5'. A large, spreading bush very useful on banks or over low walls and fences. Dark green, disease free foliage, very dense. 2" semi double blooms of bright pink with golden undertones and golden stamens fade to blush pink and come in large sprays of 10-20 blooms. Very fragrant. Semi drought and shade tolerant. Exuberant bloom in the spring, with some bloom always on the plant. Takes about 2 seasons to become well established. Deadhead if you don't want a huge crop of lovely apple green hips that age to a salmon pink when ripe.  Another picture

ERFURT: Hybrid musk, 1939, shrub class. 3'. If you like flashy single roses, you'll love this one. Neon magenta edges on ice-white petals surround the yellow stamens on this nicely fragrant bloom. Responds well to pegging and espaliering. Mid green disease free foliage, few thorns. Blooms well throughout the season right into January if you let it. Deadhead and deadwood removal recommended. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Sets a good crop of hips.

FELICITE PARMENTIER: Alba, 1834, Dowager class. 3' X 3'. When God designed the rose to be the most beautiful, beloved flower on earth, this is the model He used. Words fail to describe the perfection that is Felicite Parmentier-I can only imagine she was the loveliest woman on the face of the earth when this rose was named for her, and I am envious. Blush white outer petals surround a rosy pink centre swirl of petals exuding a fragrance that makes one think of summer evenings in an arbour surrounded by roses, jasmine and honeysuckle. Light, matte grey-green foliage is disease free. Canes are pliable and very thorny. Somewhat drought and shade tolerant. Great pot plant. Once blooming, but not stingy with the amount of bloom. If you make potpourri, you need this rose. Heck, you need this rose whether or not you make potpourri! Deadwood removal and extremely light shaping recommended. Takes about 4 seasons to become fully established. Sets some hips. I lost this one in 1996, probably due to York and Lancaster overwhelming it. I think it would do well in a half-whiskey barrel on the patio, and may go that route with it. It is well worth the effort!

FERDINAND PICHARD: Hybrid perpetual, 1921, Victorian class. 6' X 5'. A show stopper! Big, bright green foliage and some thorns on a lax bush that responds incredibly well to being pegged. Some mildew noted. Semi double blooms of white, striped, streaked and splashed carmine pink and red with bright yellow stamens and a good, spicy fragrance. Great spring bloom with some bloom on the plant all season. Deadwood removal and deadheading highly recommended. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Can set hips.

FRAU DAGMAR HARTOPP (FRU DAGMAR HASTRUP): Hybrid rugosa, 1914, shrub class. 3' X 3'. Typical rugosa in that it tolerates drought and salt air, is disease free, and looks dead in the winter. Very prickly with short, branching canes in the rugosa manner. Lovely, delicate looking petals of transparent light pink come five to a bloom that is about 5" in size with cream coloured stamens. Light rose fragrance. Mid green foliage. Blooms well all season. Establishes itself first season. Blooms on old wood, so be careful how you remove deadwood and shape. Sets few hips.

HANSA: Hybrid rugosa, 1905, shrub class. 4' X 5'. An unusual colour sets this member of the drought tolerant and disease free member of the rugosa family apart from its brethren. Vivid neon purple double blooms are intensely fragrant. Opens to show bright yellow stamens. Mid green semi glossy foliage. Very prickly, long arching canes. Good all season bloom; blooms on old wood, so shape carefully. Few hips.

HONORINE DE BRABANT: Bourbon, unknown date of introduction, Victorian class. 5' X 8'. Big, blowzy, spreading plant that looks jolly even without the addition of the 4" double white blooms striped and splashed light cerise pink. Light scent. Light green foliage that is disease free. Long, arching canes respond extremely well to pegging, or let it fountain over as a freestanding shrub. Few thorns. Good all season bloom with best show in late spring. Establishes quickly. Removal of deadwood and deadheading recommended. Sets a fair crop of hips.

ISPAHAN: Damask, prior to 1832, Dowager class. 10' X 10'. Large, refined and spreading, this is the ultimate low wall or fence rose. Elegant grey green foliage is disease free. Intensely fragrant medium pink fully double blooms come singly and in small sprays for 2 months in the late spring. Moderately thorny. Very pliable canes respond moderately well to pegging. This is the original rose used by the ancient Persians for making attar of roses and rose oil for perfumes. Makes wonderful potpourri. Removal of deadwood and light shaping recommended. Takes about 3 seasons to become fully established. Does not set hips.

KATHLEEN: Hybrid musk, 1922, shrub class. 3' X 6'. Wonderful rose for shady banks. Perfectly symmetrical 1" 5 petaled blooms of blush pink fading to white surrounding gold and maroon stamens come in huge sprays throughout the season. Fragrant. Dark green disease free foliage, some thorns. Deadheading recommended. Takes about 2 seasons to become established. Sets a huge crop of hips.

LA REINE VICTORIA: Bourbon, 1872, Victorian class. 8' X 9'. The most charming of the Victorian roses. Charming cupped double blooms of medium pink with a delightful rosy fragrance appear all season long, complimented by the leafy mid green foliage that may mildew and rust a bit. Some thorns. Outstanding response to being pegged. Flowers come in singles and manageable sprays of 3-7. Yearly removal of deadwood a must, deadheading encourages more blooms. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Sets few hips.

MME. ERNST CALVAT: Bourbon, 1888, Victorian class. 6' X 6'. A fine sport of Mme. Isaac Pereire. New foliage is deep purple in colour, turning a nice matte medium green that will mildew a bit on occasion. The blooms are a silvery pink on the outer petals deepening to a flesh pink interior. Packed with hundreds of petals and a deep fragrance that makes it excellent for potpourri. Good cutting rose but usually short stems. Large early spring flush of bloom followed by season long intermittent bloom. Responds well to pegging. Somewhat thorny. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Few hips.

MME. ISAAC PEREIRE: Bourbon, 1881, Victorian class. 6' X 7'. Humongous blooms-the largest you will ever grow. Size can exceed 7" across on a good, established, well grown plant. Deep cerise pink with hundreds of petals, suffused with an intense damask fragrance-superb for potpourri, and a good cutting rose. Large plant will sprawl everywhere and bring blooms with it. Quite thorny. A tiny bit of mildew noted on the dark green foliage on occasion. Great for pegging. Tremendous early to mid spring bloom followed by occasional blooms all season. Takes about 4 seasons to become fully established. Few hips.

OLD BLUSH: China, prior to 1752, Dowager class. 7' X 5'. The "Stud China", an important historical rose. Generally thought to be the first reliably remontant (repeat blooming) rose brought to Europe to bring that trait to the once blooming roses then in existence. Its long and distinguished list of offspring includes today's modern hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras. At its best without a lot of fussing. Light fertilization and deadwood removal, maybe a bit of shaping is all it asks for. Relaxed and sprawling bush with thin, nearly thornless canes and light green foliage that will mildew some. The blooms are loosely double with no scent, starting from a deep pink bud that opens quickly to a flat bloom that is deeper pink on the outer petals fading to light pink in the centre. Very charming. Good all season bloom. Establishes quickly. Sets a good crop of hips.

PAX: Hybrid musk, 1918, shrub class. To 6'+. A nicely scented ½"-1" bloom that starts off pale lemon and fades to ivory is well set off by the deep green, disease free foliage. Smallish, semi double blooms come in droves in the late spring and continue blooming throughout the season. Lax plant that can be trained or allowed to cover a bank or low wall. Few thorns. Deadwood removal and deadheading recommended-very light shaping if any. Very shade tolerant. Takes about 4 seasons to establish. Sets a good crop of hips.

PENELOPE: Hybrid musk, 1924, shrub class. 4' X 4'. Delicate 3" blooms look like they are made of porcelain. Blush pink shades to golden yellow at the base of the petals. Blooms are semi double, opening to a lovely boss of yellow stamen. Fragrance is very strong in the heat of midday. Mid green foliage is disease free and round in shape. Few thorns. Fairly upright bush. Good all season bloom. Shade and semi drought tolerant. Deadwood removal and deadheading recommended-otherwise let it go with just a light shaping as needed. Takes about 2 seasons to establish. Sets a good crop of hips.

REINE DES VIOLETTES: Hybrid perpetual, 1860, Dowager class. 15' X 10'+. Everyone should have this rose! So very useful with its long, lax, nearly thornless canes that will go anywhere you want them to go-over an arch, along a fence, up a trellis, down a bank, over a fence, anywhere. Easy to train bush.  Elegant grey green foliage may mildew just a tiny bit if it is around. The 4-5" blooms are flat and packed with hundreds of petals, lightly fragrant. The colour is almost indescribable-deep velvety purple shading towards magenta with hints of turquoise blue, lilac and lavender. Unbelievable spring bloom with intermittent bloom all season. Semi shade tolerant. Deadwood removal and deadheading recommended for best bloom. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. No hips.

REVE D'OR: Noisette, 1869, Victorian class. 3' X 5'. One of the best of the old yellows if you live in the right climate. Cannot take cold much below 28 degrees Fahrenheit for more than 6 hours. But will grow well in a pot, which can be brought inside during cold spells. And it would be worth it. Reddish orange buds burst open to brilliant gold fully double 2" blooms that are almost peony-like in form. Fine, spicy fragrance. Fades to light lemon white. Light green foliage will mildew a bit. Some thorns. Spreading plant that can be trained how you like. Outstanding spring bloom, with intermittent all season bloom. Deadwood removal and deadheading recommended. Establishes quickly. Sets a good crop of hips.

ROSA DAMASCENA BIFERA (AUTUMN DAMASK): Damask, prior to 1819, Dowager class. 10' X 12'. Another historical rose, this one famous for its contribution of fragrance to remontant roses. Big, strong plant with lax canes armed to the teeth with bristles, spikes and thorns. Light green foliage is disease resistant, a bit of mildew noted at times. Clusters of loosely double, bright pink 3" blooms with yellow stamens scent the very air about them starting in late spring and continuing throughout the season in warmer areas. Must be shown under the name "Autumn Damask". Massive deadwood removal and shaping to fit recommended. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Sets hips well.

ROSA MOSCHATA SEMI PLENA: Musk, ancient, Dowager class. 12' X 4'. For sheer fragrant beauty, it is hard to beat this one. Masses of small, double pure white blooms explode all over the rambling plant in late spring/early summer, filling the air with their lovely scent of rose and musk. The dark green foliage is disease free, and the large thorns enable the lax canes to climb wheresoever they please. Excellent climbing into trees or other stout climbing roses such as Cecile Brunner, where it can display its fountain of blooms well. Only once blooming but late enough to take over the dead space between other rose's bloom cycles. Deadwood removal recommended. Takes about 5 seasons to become established. Sets a good crop of hips.

ROSA RUGOSA RUBRA: Species, ancient, Dowager class. 4' X 6'. A roses for all problem areas, from beachfront to desert to tropic rainforest. Fossilized remains of this rose have been dated to 5 million years ago. Known by such unattractive names as the Potato Rose, the Tomato Rose and the Salt Lick Rose, this is the rose to plant where nothing else will grow. Once established it needs little water beyond rainfall, is disease free and even the bugs ignore it. And it rewards this neglect with large, elegant 5 petalled blooms of vin rose surrounding cream stamens and suffused of a lovely true rose fragrance all season long. In the fall, has both flowers and large, sweet hips that make fine jam and tea. The foliage will also turn yellow, orange and red in the fall, giving a magnificent all around display to enjoy. Like all rugosas, blooms on old wood and looks dead in the winter. Shape lightly and carefully remove deadwood. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Outstanding crop of hips.

ROSA SOULIENA: Species, 1896, Victorian class. To about 25'. Give it space, and it will use it well. Tiny, dainty light green foliage is disease free. Prodigious thorns allow it to climb at will into anything and everything. In the late spring, fountains of tiny, single white blooms with a heavy fragrance cover the plant, with clusters numbering in the hundreds of blooms. After the big spring show, occasional blooms may occur in much lesser numbers. Little or no deadwood to remove. Trim longest canes as needed to allow access to gates and doorways. Takes about 5 seasons to become established. Good crop of hips.

ROSE DE RESCHT: Damask, date unknown, Victorian class. 4' X 4'. Stiffly upright plant brought from Persia. Very thorny, with deep matte green foliage that will mildew slightly. Very neat plant. The leaves go right up to the base of the flower where they form a neat rosette under the base of the bloom. Flowers are deep, intense magenta, flat and packed with hundreds of strongly fragrant petals. Blooms well all season. Takes about 2 seasons to become established. Few hips.

ROSETTE DELIZY: Tea, 1922, Victorian class. 3' X 3'. One of the outstanding teas for the warmer climes, and an outstanding pot subject. The most vivid blooms in the class. Cadmium yellow blooms brushed carmine pink on the outer petals on the nicely shaped, very double flower with a fine tea scent. Somewhat twiggy growth. Olive green foliage is disease free. Few thorns. Blooms well all season. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Few hips.

SALET: Moss, 1854, Dowager class. 4' X 4'. A fine repeat blooming rose of the loveliest blend of deep and medium pink. Flat bloom has hundreds of petals, all deliciously scented. As a bonus, the calyx is covered with a "moss" that will leave scent on hands that hold the bloom. Essential for potpourri. Grey green foliage is disease resistant but will mildew badly in coastal climes. Very thorny. Upright growth. Deadwood removal and deadheading recommended. Takes about 4 seasons to become established. Some hips.

SOMBREUIL: Climbing tea, 1850, Dowager class. 18' tall. If Felicite Parmentier is the loveliest bush rose in existence, then Sombreuil is the loveliest climber. Disease free dark green oval shaped foliage clothe the slender, thorny canes from bottom to top. The flat blooms are glorious from bud to finish, filled to bursting with ivory silk petals of fine substance that are large and ovoid on the outside, sizing down to slender and oblong in the centre. The fragrance is to die for-true rose scent with undertones of lilac and citrus-one bloom can perfume an entire average sized room by itself! Intense flush of spring bloom followed by intermittent all season bloom is another bonus. Deadwood removal and deadheading recommended, along with light pruning every three seasons of the long, unproductive canes. Blooms will ball and rot in wet weather. Takes about 3 seasons to establish. Few hips.

SUPERB TUSCAN: Gallica, prior to 1848, Dowager class. 3' X 3'. A civilized member of the otherwise rowdy Gallica family, with very upright, slender canes, virtually thornless, that peg well and have neat, grey green foliage that is disease free. Very late spring bloom that is non-recurrent. The semi double blooms are of the deepest, darkest purple, looking like fine deep velvet. Golden yellow stamens. Absolutely intense true rose fragrance. Does need good winter chill to bloom, which it doesn't really get here in Southern California. Takes about 4 seasons to establish. Removal of deadwood recommended. Few hips. This one finally gave it up in 1997 and I don’t plan to replace it.

WHITE ROSE OF YORK: Alba, prior to 1597, Dowager class. 12' X 8'. This rose actually dates back before the 13th century. Large, spreading upright plant with strong and thorny canes. Some mildew of the mid grey-green foliage is noted. Semi double blooms of the purest white with golden yellow stamens and a nice fragrance are non-recurrent for the most part. In mild areas, expect a few blooms after the late spring flush is over. Great privacy screen-can be trained and pegged for maximum coverage and bloom. Good deadwood removal a must. Takes about 3 seasons to establish. Good hips.

YORK AND LANCASTER: Damask, prior to 1629, Dowager class. 5' x 12'. A big, lax bush that spreads out and climbs everything it can get into. Very thorny and bristly. Soft, bright green foliage that even the bugs hate. Charming semi double blooms that are white, pink or white with a pink petal or two, or pink with a white petal or two, or all of the above. Intensely fragrant, unbelievable early spring bloom that lasts nearly 2 months. Non recurrent. Pegs well and will climb trees. Deadwood removal yearly an absolute must and can be painful to the pruner. Takes about 3 seasons to become established. Bountiful crop of hips makes great tea.

I also have a small collection of "unknowns", potted OGR’s collected from friends, cemeteries and other places. Some day I will attempt to identify them; otherwise, I plan to simply enjoy them.